“Give me a word: sweet, savory, tart, umami, earthy …” says bartender Joshua Peter-Smith. He turns around, makes some magic happen and delivers a Prohibition-era style martini. And, it’s exactly the order: vodka and herbal liquids mix for a perfectly tart spirit.

Justice Snow’s, in the former Bentley’s space, has been transformed into a contemporary, rustic gastrobub and mixology center. Creative menu options, like tempura-fried pickles with chipotle aioli, complement a well-rounded bar and set of wines.

Opened by Michele Kiley and Marco Chingolani, formerly of the Cheese Shop, the local duo won the  rights to opening a restaurant in the city-leased corner spot next to the Wheeler — as long as it’s locally serving and rightly priced.

On the lighter side, farro and quinoa salad with pomegranate, pickled fennel, candied pecans, feta and apple runs diners $10. For something more filling, the Red Bird grilled chicken breast on sour dough with white wine fontina fondue, rainbow chard and pancetta is $12.

Prepared by Chef Jonathan Leichliter, the menu is robust and hearty and Colorado-centric, with rich cheeses, grains and a variety of meats like pork belly, black angus steak and an all-natural Colorado burger.

Don’t bypass the details, like recycled bottle light fixtures and vintage film footage played through peepholes near the bathrooms. Oh my!